Glinting Q. Formalize ([info]ilanarama) wrote,
@ 2007-10-03 17:14:00
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Escalante hike
Look, Ma, no hands!

So, some of you may be familiar with the Windom Deathmarch. Ahem. Britt and I have just returned from backpacking in the Escalante region of southeast Utah, in which we made this literal (sort of!) by exploring both Death Hollow and Little Death Hollow (which are two completely different areas some 30 miles distant from each other). Our victims were our friend Kevin, who lives in Annapolis, and his girlfriend Jenny.

Death Hollow is a canyon reached by a cairned route over slickrock, the Boulder Mail Trail, which was created in 1902 as a horseback route between Boulder (UT) and Escalante. This was our warm-up backpack; there had been extensive flooding on Saturday, the day we drove in, and we figured it would be best to stay away from the lower elevation canyons (which drained larger regions) for a while. As it turned out, once we got into the canyon we really couldn't do much. The river was too swollen to safely hike in it up or downstream, and the banks were choked by vegetation including the only poison ivy trees I have ever seen. We managed a few bends in each direction and then gave up.

On the way out, we spent the night in Sand Canyon, a shallower canyon that the route crossed, and explored a slickrock side canyon to that one which we called "String of Pearls Canyon" because of its many lovely pools.

Reflecting pool

After hiking out, we drove down to the Calf Creek Falls campground and snagged a spot, then did the 6.2 mile roundtrip to the 128-foot waterfall, with a few side hikes to find the petroglyphs that our guidebook (but not the trail guide brochure) described. We also saw wild turkeys and deer. Not at the same time.

Lower Calf Creek Falls

After that, Jenny decided she just wanted to do dayhikes on her own, so she agreed to do a car shuttle for the rest of us so we could hike into Little Death Hollow - a fabulous slot canyon - then continue down the Escalante to Harris Wash and hike out there, a through-hike of about 28 miles. As it turned out, they were 28 very strenuous miles!

We had difficulty getting started, as the clay wash access road was washed out in several spots and became impassable about a mile from the actual trailhead, so we started late and camped just as the canyon began to close in. This made for a relatively early start the next day, which was a good thing. The flood had left many muddy pools of water in the slot, ranging from ankle-deep to chest-deep to oh, shit, guess I'll have to swim. Chockstone and driftwood obstacles made it even more exciting! At the end of the day we were all wet and muddy and tired and happy.

Little Death Hollow: Looking downcanyon

Little Death Hollow: Stemming

Little Death Hollow: Wading

Little Death Hollow: Gotta get wetter

The next day, we had to hike down the Escalante, which had been seriously ripped up by the flash floods since everything drains into it. This involved bushwacking through downed willows and cottonwoods, squishing through mud, making our way down the steep muddy bank hand-over-hand down the willows and then wading through the thigh-deep river. Lather, rinse, repeat about fifty kajillion times, maybe eight miles. Then we entered Harris Wash and did the same thing, except that the river was a lot smaller and the downed vegetation was pointing in our faces rather than away from us (as we were going upstream rather than downstream). Still, we had the most fabulous campsite ever, a ledge under a huge cavernous overhang with dripping springs in the back.

Redrock on the Escalante

Bushwacking along the Escalante River

Harris Wash alcove camp

Our last day was utter misery for Kevin and me as we tromped dispiritedly after Britt, who was perkier than any human being has a right to be, damn it. We were achy and tired and sick of having wet feet and getting scratched up by tree branches, and totally ready to be DONE, and we couldn't find the damn exit trail, and ended up overshooting it by a quarter mile or so and then backtracking. Oog.

But all in all, it was a fabulous trip. No people on any of the trails (except for a couple near the exit trailhead of Harris Wash), not even any footprints until nearly Harris Wash. Great weather after that first deluge. An excellent test for our new Deuter backpacks (which alas, no longer look remotely new).


Little Death Hollow: Slot view

And if you haven't had enough, you can see all 37 photos on our Flickr page.


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[info]sdwolfpup
2007-10-03 11:25 pm UTC (link)
Your pictures are gorgeous! It looks like a beautiful trip, even with the hardships. Glad you had a good time for most of it. :)

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-03 11:35 pm UTC (link)
Thank you! It really was a great trip - I love being able to do this sort of thing.

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[info]geoviki
2007-10-03 11:50 pm UTC (link)
Ah, such memeories you bring back! Before I started working for the USGS, I worked for a seismic crew in this area. I lived at the Escalante campground for a month (well, I moved to a 'somewhere on the banks of a river' after I got sick of living with cow-workers and their drama). And we had a helicopter, so sometimes I got to ferry into our area that way. We hiked to Calf Creek Falls one evening for an after-dinner jaunt. I think your photos are better than mine, though, and we didn't have the water you did. It was spring, though, and the whole area was full of spring wildflowers. Cactus in bloom. *sigh*

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:43 pm UTC (link)
Hee, why am I not surprised? You have to come down and visit me and we shall all go to Utah and have fun.

We did have amazing wildflowers, though - after the rain, all sorts of lovely stuff came out, purple asters and yellow daisy-like things and red spiky flowers and penstemons. Really vivid.

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[info]ptyx
2007-10-04 12:00 am UTC (link)
Wow, your photos are amazing! It's a fantastic place.

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:43 pm UTC (link)
Thank you! I think that the redrock desert of the SW US is one of the more amazingly unique places on the planet.

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[info]hedda62
2007-10-04 12:09 am UTC (link)
I think I would have been screaming crazy halfway through - but wow, it all looks gorgeous.

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:44 pm UTC (link)
I think the only reason I wasn't is because I didn't want to lose my cool in front of friends. Thanks so much.

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[info]shaggirl
2007-10-04 12:20 am UTC (link)
Very cool pics. Thanks for sharing!

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:44 pm UTC (link)
Thanks for looking!

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[info]libitina
2007-10-04 12:27 am UTC (link)
I am surprised that you still did the hike after the flash flood, but I guess it really paid off with having all that beauty to yourselves.

These are amazing photos

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:45 pm UTC (link)
Well, our friends had already committed to the flight, and we were driving out there with a 'flash flood warning' not sure if it would actually happen or how bad it would be. We obviously couldn't go during it, but afterward we figured things would be okay. And they were, more or less.

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[info]wordplay
2007-10-04 12:37 am UTC (link)
What amazing photographs! I have such adventure envy, although my tolerance to walking in wet boots wouldn't have extended nearly as far as yours did! Beautiful - thanks for sharing.

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:47 pm UTC (link)
Hee. It wasn't so bad, really - we wore specific water-shoes in places where we knew we'd be doing a lot of wading. But yeah, my feet got kind of prune-y. Ah, the things we do for adventure!

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[info]beledibabe
2007-10-04 01:12 am UTC (link)
Wow! Fabulous photos -- many thanks for sharing!!

And I admire your fortitude. I love hiking, as long as there's a soft bed, shower, and flush toilet at the end of the day. ::g::

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:49 pm UTC (link)
I'm glad you enjoyed them! I think that there is something psychological for me in carrying my "home" with me that outweighs the inconvenience of backpacking - and also, with the new equipment, it's pretty darn nice! My new sleeping pad is almost as good as a soft bed. However, I still hate washing up in a creek. :-)

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[info]delurker
2007-10-04 04:37 am UTC (link)
What pretty pictures, especially your campsite! And those narrow gullies look quite inviting, although perhaps a little claustrophobic after a while.

*looks at Flickr stream* Oh hey, petroglyphs! How cute, and also awesome. The landscape is so gorgeous, but I wouldn't have wanted to be there in all the wet - I like my hiking dry, no matter how pretty the waterfalls are. :)

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:50 pm UTC (link)
Thank you! And yeah, there are lots of petroglyphs and cave dwelling ruins in this area, which are always very cool to come across.

It really wasn't that wet - it didn't rain on us at all, it was just leftover puddle and mud type wet. But I agree, dry is better.

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[info]delurker
2007-10-05 01:40 am UTC (link)
Icon love!

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[info]skuf
2007-10-04 06:18 am UTC (link)
I'm very impressed by your hike and the images - for amazing scenery!!

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:51 pm UTC (link)
Thank you! The desert southwest is unlike any other place on earth, I believe.

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[info]mamoru22
2007-10-04 08:20 am UTC (link)
Oh wow, those are some terrific pictures. It makes me feel like wanting to hike even with the wet feet and getting scratched by tree branches. :)

Thanks for sharing these!

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:52 pm UTC (link)
Thank you very much! (There were lots of European tourists around, so clearly others think so as well!)

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[info]bethbethbeth
2007-10-04 09:50 am UTC (link)
Absolutely gorgeous! Thanks for sharing these pictures.

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:52 pm UTC (link)
You're welcome!

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[info]jeddy83
2007-10-04 10:35 am UTC (link)
Fabulous photos. The canyons in particular look like they were a lot of hard work but so much fun!

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:53 pm UTC (link)
Thank you. Yeah, it's very strenuous hiking, but really there are things to do for any ability level, and since we are in fairly good shape (and enjoy this sort of thing) we opted for the challenge.

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[info]laurelwood
2007-10-04 12:43 pm UTC (link)
Now that's a cool adventure. After all that, I can see how your backpacks wouldn't look brand new anymore. And how great that you got to enjoy such breathtaking scenery without any other people around!

Also, you have the most gorgeous legs.

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:56 pm UTC (link)
I am bummed! I have a small hole in my pack, and Britt's has two straps almost worn through that will need replacement asap. (On the other hand, we definitely love these packs. Love, love, love. I mean, if you have to carry one around, might as well make it a comfy one.)

It was very cool not seeing other people - actually, the dayhike to Calf Creek Falls had lots of people on it, which made the solitude of the backpack outings seem even more remarkable. The really nifty thing was that since the rain had totally washed away any prior footprints, we really did have the illusion that we were the first persons to travel each of these paths.

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[info]goldispikes
2007-10-04 04:59 pm UTC (link)
Nice work!!! How's your canyoneering guide service coming? Do you take in strays??

I miiiiiiss Utah...it's been a whole five months since I've been there. Those rocks, the silence and all that space is a powerful, powerful drug.

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:57 pm UTC (link)
Hee, I am so glad not to live on the Front Range any more. Too far to Utah!

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[info]alembicresearch
2007-10-04 05:13 pm UTC (link)
Beautiful pictures!
Hiking in canyon country is SOOO different than
hiking here and in the Sierra.
I'm used to hiking where all the rocks are a bluish grayish color.
So it is always so facinating to me to see places where
the rocks are so colorful.

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:59 pm UTC (link)
Ever see one of those geological maps of the Four Corners area? It's like modern art, all sorts of complicated shapes and designations as all the different layers fold back on each other and different layers are exposed in different places. Even in the mountains here, one basin might have mostly granite while the next one over mostly limestone. And the red rock sandstone is so amazing, isn't it!

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[info]alembicresearch
2007-10-04 10:13 pm UTC (link)
Yes, it is so much different than here ...
whenever I go to the southwest, it seems
so magical to me, because it is such an alien
landscape compared to what I'm used to.

I'm always torn between wanting to live
in the desert southwest, where its like that,
and the Pacific Northwest, where it is lush
and green everywhere.

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One persons difficulty...
[info]traveller42
2007-10-04 07:14 pm UTC (link)
...is another persons fun.

Great story and pictures. I'm SO envious.

Clark

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Re: One persons difficulty...
[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:59 pm UTC (link)
Thank you, Clark! See, new adventures! :-)

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[info]saramwrap
2007-10-04 07:26 pm UTC (link)
You're awesome. I wish I lived closer to such lovely places... and had a fancy new pack to try out! :P

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 10:00 pm UTC (link)
Come out here and I will loan you one of my fancy new packs! And we shall go on a deathmarch and you can hate me forever! :-)

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[info]dipping_sauce
2007-10-04 08:08 pm UTC (link)
I really had to make an icon out of the first one:

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-04 09:41 pm UTC (link)
YAY YAY YAY!

*snags*

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[info]nerdsholmferret
2007-10-05 12:29 am UTC (link)
Did you hear any interesting moan-like echoes in Little Death Hollow?

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[info]traveller42
2007-10-05 04:21 pm UTC (link)
Good question.

:->

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-15 03:02 pm UTC (link)
You know, I made this joke to Kevin and Britt and they stared at me blankly. I'm glad someone else thought about it.

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[info]primroseburrows
2007-10-05 04:58 pm UTC (link)
Oh, this is gorgeous. I don't know why I don't think of Utah when I'm making my mental 'places to visit 'cause they're awesome' list. *adds*

See, this is why I want to do the travel nursing schtick. I'm so sick of my one little plot of land it isn't even funny.[/midlife crisis mode]

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[info]ilanarama
2007-10-15 03:03 pm UTC (link)
Utah is awesome (although a hard place to live if you're a liberal). Colorado is awesome too.

Also, my county just got declared a "medically underserved area" so you should come HERE.

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[info]primroseburrows
2007-10-16 10:48 pm UTC (link)
Also, my county just got declared a "medically underserved area" so you should come HERE.


*adds to prospective list*

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